Shawl-coliab fob gabmeitts



J. E. WITIMAN.

SHAWL COLLAR FOR GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 3 i919.

Patented Dec. 30,1919.

2 SHEETS--SHEET J. E. WITTMAN.

SHAWL COLLAR FOR GARMENTS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 3. I919.

1 326,704. Patenfed Dec. 30, 1919.

2.8HEETS-SHEET 2. P

JoHn E. WITTMAN, or PORTLAND, OREGON.

Specification of Letters Patent.

SHAWL-COLLAR non eenmnnrs,

Patented Dec. so. 191

Application filedJulyB, 1919. serial ll' fo. 308,648.

To all whom it may concern j y Be it known that I, JOHN E. WITTMHAN, a citizen of theUnitedStates, and a resident of Portland, county of Multnomah, State vof Oregon, have invented a new andusefullnr provement in Shawl-C0llars for Garments, of which the following is a s'pecificatlon.

. y invention relates to garments made with a shawl collar.

Heretofore the perfect shawl collar effect was obtained by ironing and stretching the material at the outer edge of the. collar. Such work requiresconsiderableskill, consumes considerable time and is costly. It is therefore usually bestowed upon high priced garments only. And evensuch, skilr ful tailoring has. an. element of uncertainty;

that is, itflacks uniformity in the effectiproduced, because: the tailor may stretch the goods too much, and. in. sodoing cause, a poor fittingeflect.

The 0b 'ect of my invention is toelirninate the necessity for skilful stretching and. iron ing as the factor for obtaining a wellfitt ed shawl-collar, and, instead, tobring. about, and. assure, thesameresult asthe inevitable, mechanical efl'ect due to the making of the collar of the combination of piecesof the shapes hereinafter described, and Sewn tQ- gether by an ordinary operator. i

I attain. my ob'ect by cutting. the component pieces of the collar of the shapes, and uniting the same, as hereinafter described; thereby causing the material. at the outer edge ofthe collar to acquire a fullness along lines radiating from; the center lines, of the shoulders; andby so doing, causing a hollow or concavity at the shoulders, adapted to conform, to the convexity of-the latter, and thus causing the collar to lie smoothly over the shoulders,

In the accompanying drawings, constituting a part ofthis specification,

Figure 1 shows an outside view of the up-i per part of a garment providedwith a shawl collar the latter being lifted so as to illustrate the elements entering into construction of the under piece of the collar.

Fig. 2 is an inside View of the garment and of the elements entering into the construction of thetop piece of the collar.

Fig. 3 shows partof a pattern for. cutting one side of the front of the garment, and

illustrates the curve of the line on'which the neck opening is to becut. a

Fig: 4 shows. he Patter ta entries. aeshalf of the under. piece of the collarwhieh 1s sewed to the neck line of the piece.sli wri in Fig. i

The plece shown in Fig. 4 is also shqwnin broken outline inFig. 3, and there placedin relative position for sewingin place;

In Fig. 5, the piece shown in Fig. 4; is

shown as sewn C in, place to 1 the neck "of the front piece ofv the garment shown in Fig."

3; Fig. 5 therefore also illustrates the re sulting fullness in theunderpie'ce of ar ctr lar, which Fig, 1.

Fig. 6, illustrates a part of the'patternfo j cuttingone-half of the tqpepieee of the collar,

fullness is also illustrated.

uch r eq ei an n gr l par of inner facings ofthe front of the garmen "F g- 7 i sra s he n rt hic -matte 1 placed at the inneredge. of the gf' h unde p ec cfftlieco l rs fornroducee. th r quire f ll s n. the" S peri ous f e att th antes inedb'aing lus 'rateclin iigl i? .l' -J lQ hQW. e pe .y. affront iew si e V ew a a 7a,], aware guree r sa ga me t ade wi h proved shawlcollar andillus'trates the, i

t ns ffe t t ned- My l r s ad of an, under-piece shown as a whole in Fig. 1, and top p ce, ShOWItfLS a whole in Fig, 2,; the component elements of these pieces being cuti'nthe particular ep and ew i'together n e manner hereinafter. described:"

Referring to Fig. 1; a represents theback of the garmentyb the two front pieces. The latter are made with the usualarm holes c,'and the neck-line d, is cut to}. suitable curve. The under-piece e ofthe collar may be madeof one or more pieces as con- ,venient, with a view of economy. If made of two pieces as 6', they would be sewedi to gether as illustrated in Fig. 1; the juncture coinciding with'the middle ofthe back. Each. end of thei colla'r is cut" to the shape shown in Fig. 4. It will notedtliat the base line 7 of theseends describesanarc of acircle of 'muchgreate'r radius than the are described by the neck-line d, and this is one of the essential points to be observed in making my improved collar. l

In attaching the under-piece e to the neck line ofthe. frontpieces b of the body the garment, the seam t isQ tarted at a point e of the under piece and'the point 0! ofthe nec d; nd carrier e' esi f similar points at the opposite end of the under piece. In consequence the base line 7 of the endsof the under-piece 6 becomes arranged as illustrated in Fig. 5, thereby producing, and causing a fullness of the material at 9 along lines radiating from points h, lying in the center lines of the shoulders.

The top-piece of the collar and integral portions of the facing of the front of the garment is cut to the pattern shown in Fig. 6, in which 2' represents a portion of the toppiece of the collar, andj a portion of the facing integral therewith. The top-piece of the collar, as shown in Fig. 6, has triangular pieces Z2 cut out, the sides of the triangle bein desi nated b isand in such an ular a g y a a openings is sewn an elongate insert Z, of the shape shown in Fig. 7, the ends Z thereof be ing cut at an oblique angle. The sewing of the insert Z in the collar piece i is started at a point m, the ends of the collar-piece i being drawn outward, as shown by broken lines 2" in Fig. 6, to accommodate the insertion of the insert Z, as also illustrated by broken outlines in Fig. 6. In the latter figure, the broken line n represents the centerv line of the collar and back of the garment.

When the insert Z has been sewn in place a fullness will be produced at 0, at the outer edge ,of the collar by a spreading of the material along lines radiating from said points m, designating the vertices of theremoved triangular pieces 7:. Such fullness also being located at the center lines of the shoulder, indicated by the broken lines 0 in Fig. 2.

The under piece of the collar is first attached to the body of the garment, and then the top piece.

When the collar is constructed as above described the efiects illustrated in Figs. 8 to 10 inclusive, will have been produced. As will be observed in Fig. 10, the outer edge of the collar q, will be adapted to lie snugly on the back of the person and the shoulder portions 1" will also have the proper shape and fit. Furthermore the back of the collar s will have tailored fit, to the neck of the figure permitting the shirt collar to project above the coat collar,'and giving a pleasln'g effect. i

' My invention relates particularly to mackinaw garments, because 1n the making of those garments, the manufacturer cannot afford to put in any time for tailoring effects in order to bring about a neat fit for the collar.

By my invention the collar efi'ect produced is no longer left to the discretion of the operator with uncertain results, but uniform good results are obtained by any op erator capable'of sewing pieces of cloth properly together without being required to pay any attention to the shaping of the collar, since that is the inevitable mechanical result of the described construction of my collar.

My collar construction effects economy in material use, since the pieces may be cut out with a minimum of waste.

Thecollar pieces of course, must be cut in size to correspond with that of the garment, as will be understood by any experienced cutter.

I claim:

1. In a garment of the character described, a body part, and a shawl collar, having a circular neck-opening stitched to the latter, said shawl-collar made of an inner collar-piece whose outer edge describes an arc and: whose inner edge describes the adjacent arcs of intersecting circles of equal radii, but much greater than the radius of said neck-opening, and an outer-collar piece having small triangular sections cut away at its I inner I or neck edge, the altitudes of these triangular sections coinciding with the center lines of the shoulders of the gar: ment, and said outer collar-piece having an elongate insert at its inner edge, said insert having oblique diverging. ends, the converging sides of said triangular openings of said outer collar-piece being sewn to the upper edge of said insert, and the diverging sides of said triangular openings being sewn to the oblique ends of said insert, thereby causing a fullness at the outer edge of the collar on lines radiating from the center lines of, and forming concavities at the shoulders of the garment, substantially as described.

2. In a garment of the character described, a shawl collar made of a collar piece having small triangular sections cut awav at its inneror neck edge. the altitudes of these triangular sections coinciding with the center lines of the shoulders of the garment, and an elongate insertsewn to said inner edge between said triangular openin s. said insert having oblique diverging ends, the converging sides of said triangular openings being sewn to the upper edge of said insert, and the diverging sides of said triangular openings being sewn to the oblique ends of said insert, thereby causing a fullness at the outer edge of the collar on lines radiating from the vertices of said triangular openings; such fullness producing concavities for receiving the shoulders of the wearer, substantially as described.

3. In. a garment of the character described, a shawl collar made of a collar-piecehaving small triangular sections cut away at its inner or neck edge. the altitudes of these triangular sections coinciding withthe center lines of the shoulders of the garment; and an elongate insert sewn to said inner edge between said triangular openings, said i being sewn to the upper edge of said insert,

and the diverging sides of said triangular openings being sewn to the oblique ends of said insert, thereby causing a fullness at the outer edge of the collar on lines radiating from the vertices of said triangular openings; such fullness producing concavities for receiving the shoulders of the wearer, and a companion collar-piece conforming to said outer collar-piece, and forming with the latter conc'avities at the shoulders of the garment, substantially as described.

In a garment of the character described, a body part, the edge of whose neck opening substantially describes an arc, and a collar-piece as 6, whose outer edge describes an arc and whose inner edge describes the adjacent arcs of intersecting circles of equal radii but much greater than the radius of said neck opening, the inner edge of said collar-piece being sewn to the edge of said neck opening, thereby producing a full ness at the outer edge of the collar on lines radiating from the center lines of the shoulders of the garment, and forming concavities for receiving the shoulders of the wearer, substantially as described.

5. In a garment of the character described, a body part, the edge of whose neck opening substantially describes an arc, and a collar-piece as 6, whose outer edge describes an arc and whose inner edge describes the adjacent arcs of intersecting circles of equal radii but much greater than the radius of said neck opening, the inner edge of said collar-piece being sewn to the edge of said neck opening, thereby producing a fullness at the outer edge of the collar on lines radiating from the center lines of the shoulders of the garment, and a companion collar-piece conforming to said inner collar-- 1 piece and forming with the latter concavity at the shoulders of the garment substantially as described.

JOHN E. WjITTMAN. 

